Retinoids are not the newest kids on the block, but have recently become more mainstream as the skincare consumer becomes more savvy. Below is a look at what you need to know when considering starting Retinoids/Retinol. While I do use Retinol based products, I have not jumped onto Retinoids yet. Please let us know if you have and what your overall experience has been.

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What are they?

Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A.  Retinol is the non-prescription, more gentle version of a retinoid. Retinoids are prescription only and you need to see your dermatologist or plastic surgeon to start on one. These are the favorite anti aging ingredient because so much research has proven them to help turn back the hands of time.

What do they do?

Retinoids were originally for Acne treatment when doctors noticed a side effect of less wrinkles/lined skin in patients. Retinoids work by preventing the rise of an enzyme called collagenase and boosting collagen already present in the skin. Retiniods and Retinol speed up cell turnover, which causes skin to look younger and smoother. They also reverse signs of sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles and even out pigmentation.You can expect improvement in overall skin tone and brightness. You can expect to see the benefits of Retinoids within 4 weeks of starting. Retinol, due to its more gentle makeup takes around 12 weeks to start noticing a difference, but continual long term usage is very beneficial.

What are the side effects?

There is no such thing as a free lunch, but the side effects are not that bad. Some people will experience redness, peeling, dryness or skin irritation. The best way to start using a Retinoid is every three days. This will allow your skin to ease into it. If you are having no irritation try every other day and eventually graduate into every day use. There has always been a myth about Retinoids/Retinols causing sensitivity to the skin when exposed to sun. This has been shown to not be true. Yes, retinoids are light sensitive(and susceptible to breaking down) but they do not make skin susceptible to increased UV damage or sunburn. Studies have shown that Retinoids do not lower the MED—or minimal erythemal dose, which is the amount of UV skin can tolerate before burning and showing signs of burning. So, yes you can take them on a tropical vacation.

Who needs them?

Some doctors and skincare experts say it is never to soon to start using Retinoids, but a safe rule of thumb is to start in your mid 30’s to early 40’s, depending on your skin. If you’re nearing 40 and deciding between peels and Retinoids, use Retinoids. But the sooner you start the fewer signs of aging you will develop. Overuse of Retinoids can cause skin to look red, taught and dehydrated, so ease in slowly. Always remember to moisturizer over the top, especially if in dry or cold climates.

 

Deciding between a peel vs. physical exfoliator and what may be best for you? As we have more and more options in the world of acids we wanted to outline the treatment benefits of the at-home peel ingredients to look out for. Here are some things to keep in mind when deciding which is right for you.

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So why peel you ask? Peels can be a nice addition to your regimen because they are not physical exfoliants, which can, if over used cause redness, dryness and irritated skin. A peel is a gentler way to exfoliate during the winter. Peels work by dissolving the top layer/layers of skin, depending on the type of acid, to get the ‘repair’ started. Certain acids such as Lactic, are safe for sensitive skin as they pull moisture to the surface.

Peels are more effective during your 20’s and 30’s, whereas retinoids are better after 40. Acids are different than retinoids. Retinoids cause inflammation to get the skin to regenerate, whereas acids dissolve dead skin cells on the top layers of skin.

A few things to now about peels are :

  • Peels are good for sensitive skin instead of physical scrubs because there is no abrasion.
  • Lower strength acids are less aggravating.
  • Most store bought peels only go up to 10-20% acid, while aggressive in-office peels can be up to 70%.
  • A good peel should tingle but not burn-not. It should not cause redness or dusting(unless in-office)
  • Skin will glow after a peel.

The Acids

Glycolic Acid

  • regenerates collagen
  • smallest molecule-penetrates the deepest
  • thickens epidermis
  • evens out skin tone
  • can be very aggressive
  • derived from sugar

Our favorite Glycolic Acid peel: Sunday Riley’s Good Genes

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Lactic Acid

  • derived from sour milk
  • 2nd smallest molecular
  • more gentle than glycolic
  • removes dead skin cells
  • hydrating (pulls moisture up to top layer of skin)

Our favorite Lactic Acid peel: Goldfaden MD’s Fresh A Peel 

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The Fruit Acids

  • can be citric acid- derived from lemon or grapefruit
  • can be malic acid- derived from apples
  • peels upper surface layer of skin
  • usually combined with glycolic or lactic to be more intense/effective

Salicylic 

  • beta hydroxy
  • treats acne
  • unclogs pores

 TCA (Trichoroacetic acid)

  • can be very intense
  • can days to recover
  • actual peeling skin
  • SPF needed for months after
  • usually performed in office
  • recommended for darker skin individuals
  • helps with pigmentation issues

There are so many wonderful options for peels today! Think about what your skin concerns are and then try a few different types of peels. For a few weeks try pads and then switch to a liquid, one step peel. Sometimes discovering what is best for your skin can be trial and error, so go easy if it is strong acid, as you do not want to overdo.

Happy peeling!

 

 

 

Dr.GLL

Cutting-edge science and research is unlocking the secrets (and amazing benefits) of topical anti-aging technologies, but what does that mean for us? With so many questions arising about when to start using anti-aging skincare, what products to select and what ingredients to look for, we had a chance to sit down with Dr. Goldfaden, Dermatologist and ingredient expert, and get his thoughts and recomendations on some of the most common questions related to skincare today.

When should we begin to use anti-aging skincare products?

Protecting your skin from UVA/UVB damage through the daily use of a sunscreen and starting a proper and preventative skincare regimen that consists of: exfoliation, cleansing, an anti-oxidant rich serum, moisturizer and an eye treatment in your early-20’s is vital to keeping your skin line-free, pigmentation and the loss of elasticity at bay. We all want that fresh, luminescent and radiant skin forever and starting on a regular anti-aging regimen in your 20’s makes such a huge impact on the overall health of the skin. Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What are your top tips for keeping skin young?

Exfoliation is key – You would be surprised how much smoother and brighter just one exfoliating treatment can do for your skin. Regular exfoliation also allows topical products, particularly super potent treatment serums, applied onto the skin afterwards to penetrate deeper, increasing the overall treatment. Never leave home without applying a sun screen – it is essential to keeping ourselves protected from free radical damage and skin cancer. Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What are some effective ingredients to look for?

Some of the ingredients that I often lean on to incorporate into our formulas, due to their potent benefits on the skin, include skin plumping hyaluronic acid, anti-inflammatory vitamin K and Arnica, skin brightening alpha arbutin and gooseberry berry extract, skin exfoliating ruby crystals, collagen boosting retinoids, antioxidant rich tea, plant and fruit extracts. Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What about supplements and our diet in general? How can those help?

Clear and glowing skin starts from the inside. Eating foods rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, the most beneficial is Salmon (this is a great feature on all of the health benefits that Salmon offers from Live Strong), can greatly reduce inflammation, reduce dryness and increase circulation – a key attribute to healthy, youthful-looking skin. Daily consumption of vitamins specifically my favorite vitamin – Vitamin D and an overall multi-vitamin greatly impacts your overall health. Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

Can you share some of your favorite anti-aging products?

based – penetrate deep into the dermis levels of the skin for the ultimate topical nourishing skin treatments. Serums offer a potent jolt to the skin that typically target specific problems to offer the highest levels of treatment in a topical product. Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD