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Waking up looking refreshed requires more than just the absence of under eye darkness or puffiness, the skin tells the story. The restorative power of sleep is vital for rejuvenating and repairing the skin and is controlled by the hormone melatonin. Melatonin production increases and peaks around 2am, so applying a night cream before bed enhances your skin’s ability to rest and reset. While the myths around the material of your pillow case and drinking lots of water before bed, send people running to Bed Bath and Beyond and the bathroom, choosing the appropriate night cream and using it is the best defense. Wearing anti-aging products at night allows skin to absorb all the nutrients and ingredients while being in a relaxed state. During the nighttime hours, the skin springs into action to repair itself and get back

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into balance through a restorative and renewal process.

Treating the skin with the appropriate ingredients is as important as getting the sleep itself. The most potent anti-aging ingredients to look for in a night cream include: Retinoids, Peptides and Melatonin. The efficacy of melatonin as a topical agent offers a promising avenue to enhance the skin’s nightly repair cycle. Retinoids attack hyper pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles and skin tone, while peptides encourage skin cell growth and collagen production.

As melatonin levels decline with age, only minuscule amounts of the small quantities produced by those suffering from sleep problems actually reach the skin. Fortunately, going straight to the source and applying melatonin directly to the skin will allow those suffering from insomnia to benefit from its rejuvenating powers, not only for restoring the appearance and texture of skin, but also in getting a good night’s sleep. Melatonin plays a key role in rejuvenating skin by stimulating the growth of major skin cells such as keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Fibroblasts produce the essential proteins collagen and elastin, which provide structural support for the skin. Melatonin has also been shown to be effective against skin aging. It has powerful antioxidant properties by quenching mainly hydroxyl radicals, the most damaging of all radicals.

Retinoids, a derivative of Vitamin A, work by stimulating skin to generate collagen and hyaluronic acid, increase radiance by reducing pore size and safely exfoliating the skin and increase cell turnover which decreases the appearance of hyper pigmentation.

Peptides are made up of a string of amino acids held together by tough bonds of nitrogen and carbon that act as messengers to send out signals which tell the receptors on your skin cells how they should perform. A few of the most beneficial peptides include palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, which is a peptide that triggers a natural heal-and-repair response that stimulates the development of collagen and elastin, encourages new fibroblast growth, and increases the production of skin cells. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is a powerful wrinkle-reducing peptide that works by hindering a signal protein called catecholamine that triggers muscle contraction, thereby relaxing your facial muscles.

Choose the correct night cream and you will wake up looking like you got 10 hours asleep instead of 6.

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With so many anti-aging options on the market, how do you decide what is best for you?

“One of the older yet most effective ingredients, Retinol, is still at the top of my list for anti-aging, says Dr. Gary Goldfaden.” A little bit of Retinol each day goes a long way. There seems to be concern about over using this anti aging wonder ingredient, due to some of the red, thin faces you may see out there. Have no fear, as long as you do not overdo, you will reap the benefits of retinol without the side effects.

Breaking Down Retinol:

Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A. Retinol is the non-prescription, more gentle version of a retinoid. Retinoids are prescription-only and you need to obtain a prescription from your dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Retinol and retinoids are the favorite anti aging ingredients because so much research has been conducted. Retinoids work by preventing the rise of an enzyme called collagenase and boosting collagen already present in the skin. Retiniods and Retinol speed up

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cell turnover, which causes skin to look younger, tighter and smoother. They also reverse signs of sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles and even out discoloration from the sun, giving the skin tone an all over even look.

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Results:

You can expect to see the benefits of Retinoids within 4 weeks of starting. Retinol, due to its more gentle makeup takes around 12 weeks to start noticing a difference, but continual long term usage is extremely beneficial for the skin as it works to . If you are just starting out with retinol, try an over the counter product that won’t be too harsh. Many people have side effects when first starting, so ease your skin in. If you are not seeing the desires results, try a prescription retinol product. If you have sensitive type skin or reactive skin stick with a OTC product that contains hydrating and soothing ingredients.

– Clears Acne
– Diminishes Wrinkles
– Lightens Discoloration + Evens Overall Skin Tone
– Shrinks Pore Size

“When choosing an anti-aging lotion that contains retinol consider other ingredients that help boost the effects. Our Wake Up Call contains alpha lipoic acid, DMAE, glucosamine, CoQ10 and avocado oil which all assist retinol in improving the appearance of photo-damaged, wrinkled, loose skin while the avocado oil helps to hydrate.” Dr. Gary Goldfaden reports

When to Start?:

I often get asked “at what age should I start using retinol?”. This is all dependent on how you have treated you skin thus far. If you’re in your late 20’s and have a lot of sun damage and fine line and wrinkles, then it’s time to start. A good rule of thumb is by 30 you should be using anti-aging products and something that contains retinol. The sooner you start restoring and protecting your skin the better.

Two important tips about seeing the benefits of retinol quicker is to use an exfoliator(chemical or physical) and wear an SPF everyday. Exfoliation helps to remove old dead skin cells which make skin brighter and softer. Protecting your skin by wearing an SPF, you will create less damage and be able to see results quicker. The key is everything helps in the fights against aging!

Screen Shot 2014-09-03 at 11.25.02 AMTraveling to a new place by plane, train or car, can present our senses and skin with a whole host of adjustment triggers, so we sat down with Dr. Goldfaden and enlisted his expertise to talk about how we can keep breakouts, dehydration and dullness at bay all while showing up in our final destination ready to charge forward!

How does flying take a toll on your skin? 

“Flying dehydrates skin which can cause dryness and possible breakouts. When skin gets dehydrated excess oil is produced to compensate and this can result in breakouts a few days after your flight.” Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What measures can you take in the air to keep it moist and hydrated? Should you bring a spray, drink lots of water, continue to moisturize? Steer clear of alcohol? 

“Drinking water is always important but start hydrating a few days before, just drinking water during the flight is not going to do much. Before flying wash your face with a gentle cleanser that is alcohol-free and then seal it with a hydrating serum. Then apply an oil or very hydrating moisturizer. Wearing foundation is not the best idea but if you must try and use a light weight one or tinted moisturizer. Drinking alcohol on a plane or on the ground will absolutely dehydrate you and your skin-so steer clear in the air!” Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

If you’re headed to a tropical locale with a hot, humid climate – how can that affect your skin? Cause breakouts, rashes, excessive oil production? What can you do to keep it calm? 

“Hot humid climates can cause skin to go a little crazy at first. Think about what types of products you are packing. Steer clear of heavy moisturizers, retinols or peels while there or at least until your skin gets comfortable with the climate. If using an oil make sure it is a balancing oil-nothing too heavy. Do not do a peel or use retinol products the night before you leave. Sometimes is is nice to let your skin breathe a little. Try just wearing an oil free serum instead of a moisturizer and see how it feels. If you feel dry then use a light weight moisturizer.  It is important to listen to your skin. If you tend to get flushed from heat and humidity cool compresses work great or a misting water. Always wear an SPF, look for a light weight dry mist that contains soothing ingredients such as Organic Red Tea.” Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

 What about a very dry, desert climate? What effects can that have on your skin? How can you treat it and take precautions? 

“A dry, dessert climate will dry your skin out quickly. Make sure to hydrate your skin with a serum and moisturizer. These types of climates can be windy, so be cautious not to get a wind burn. If you are outside for long periods of time cover your face with a light weight cloth and of course wear an SPF.” Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What about high altitudes? 

“High altitude climates can be very harsh on the body and the skin.  Due to the location to the sun (you are closer to it) UVA rays are much stronger. Sun burn is more common as well as wind burn. If you know anyone who lives in a ski town you have seen what sun damage and high altitude can do to the skin-think leather baseball mit…..Always hydrate the skin by using extra layers of hydrating serums and moisturizers/oils.” Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What about supplements and our diet in general? How can those help? 

“Regular intake of Vitamins and a healthy diet contributes to overall health and prevents your body from being sick and run down, especially when traveling. Clear and glowing skin starts from the inside. Eating foods rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, the most beneficial is Salmon, can greatly reduce inflammation, reduce dryness and increase circulation – a key attribute to healthy, youthful-looking skin. Daily consumption of vitamins specifically my favorite vitamin – Vitamin D and an overall multi-vitamin and Omega-3 greatly impacts your overall health.” Dermatologist Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD