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If you suffer from Acne or are trying to eliminate those stubborn scars from years ago, you’ll want to read this. In the past decade there have been many treatment options developed for acne prone skin. With the popularity and availability of over the counter skin care products, the consumer has become more savvy about how products perform and what to use in order to treat and or prevent acne. We sat down with Dr. Goldfaden to get the 411 on the best and most effective acne treatments on the marketplace.

With the advancements of lasers, many turn to these to help to treat acne and eliminate scarring. There are many different types of lasers and while there is not a tremendous amount of research to suggest they really work against acne, they can help some people. Due to the possible side effects I would sooner suggest trying another treatment first before taking the last road.

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How do you approach treatment of acne? 

When a patient is dealing with Acne, it is always important to do a 360 degree evaluation. This means investigating all the possible things that could be causing the acne. The patients age, diet, exercise routine and overall health. I am more likely to treat acne prone skin with natural yet effective products before prescribing an antibiotic. If there is an infection present then an antibiotic will be suggested. Exfoliation is the main suggestion for fighting acne prone skin. Exfoliation not only clears up existing oil and bacteria, it also removes dead and dry skin cells and inhibits future breakouts. Throughout years of research one ingredient I have found to be beneficial when applied topically is Organic Red Tea extract or Rooibos. Red Tea extract is soothing and fights inflammation, irritation and redness. I will usually prescribe an exfoliation scrub in conjunction with a red tea based serum to Acne sufferers for dead skin and bacteria removal and healing properties.

What about antibiotic treatment and effectiveness, long term use, resistance, ability to tackle the root cause?

Accutane is the most clinically effective drug to fight acne but very strong and has many side effects. Long term use of any antibiotic is not recommended and the natural approach is always the first choice of treatment. Over usage of any antibiotic can result in a resistance, but when used properly and if all avenues have been exhausted prior, this can be a very beneficial and successful approach to combat stubborn acne.

What are your views on of accutane and dosing? Has your view changed over the years?

Accutane will be prescribed as a last option. I have never been a fan of Accutane as it has many unwanted side effects. However it remains the most effective drug for Acne. Natural topical treatments are always recommended first before an antibiotic.

How have lasers impacted treatment?

There are many types of lasers available now, however they can be expensive and can cause unwanted side effects such as pain, burning, peeling, redness and dark spots as well as no results. I recommend older and more mature adults to look at this option as a last resort rather than sending younger men and women to laser treatments simply based on the variety of alternative and successful options that do exist.

Any recent advances that are exciting to you?

Accutane still remains the popular choice for prescription. Lasers and OTC skincare products have become more and more popular in recent years which allows all of our research to become more mainstream and accessible to the general public which is so great.

Can you talk to us about AHA/BHA acids as treatments?

Alpha hydroxy acid-based facial exfoliators are an excellent choice for people with oily skin. In general, beta hydroxy acid is a more effective treatment for acne prone skin. Beta-hydroxy acid (also called salicylic acid), is a synthetic derivative that comes from the same source as aspirin.  Both AHAs and BHA work by combining with the structural lipids in your stratum corneum and dissolving them so that the dead skin cells break away. Since the introduction of OTC skincare products such as the popular wipes and our Fresh A Peel lactic acid wash, peels can be done safely at home with no side effects.

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How does Vitamin A interact with spot prone skin?

Vitamin A or retinoids help repair sun damage, fine lines and wrinkles, overall skin tone,  cell turnover, Acne and overall skin repair. Vitamin A stimulates skin cell renewal by increasing the rate of cell division 1-3. Retinoids or Retinol products can help to unclog pores thus inhibit dead skin cells to clog pores and cause future breakouts. Vitamin A can also help to inhibit acne scars from forming.

 

Lauren/Lisa: What is SPF and what does it mean?

Dr. Goldfaden: The protection is all factored on the time spent in the sun. SPF, “Sun Protection Factor” primarily measures UVB protection. Sun Screen products above SPF 50 do not offer an increase in sun protection (this is the current FDA regulations). When one wears an SPF 30 for example, you could stay out in direct sunlight for 30 times longer before UVA/UVB damage occurs than a person with no sunscreen. This is how SPF factor’s are designated. The key to proper sun protection is the reapplication throughout the day. There is NO one miracle sun screen that covers and protects you completely throughout the day.

Lauren/Lisa: What is the difference between UVA and UVB rays?

Dr. Goldfaden: UVA makes up

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about 90% of the UV radiation that reaches the earth on a daily basis – visible light that we see. UVB makes up the remaining 10% and is strongest during the peek hours of the day (11-3pm) when the sun is at its strongest. Although both cause skin damage and have been shown to lead to cancer, UVB rays penetrate deep into the dermis layers and causes the actual sun burn, redness and damage to the deep layers within the skin.

Lauren/Lisa: What is the difference between Chemical and Physical Sunscreen? Is one more preferable than the other?

Dr. Goldfaden: It’s important to understand the difference between Physical and Chemical SPF levels: Physical sunscreens protect your skin from the sun by deflecting or blocking the sun’s rays. Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing the sun’s rays. Some chemical filters can scatter sun rays, but still mostly just absorb them. Physcial sunscreens have been approved from the FDA and show no issues at all. Chemical sunscreens are also safe depending on the type of ingredient – some chemical filters generate free radicals which can cause skin damage, irritation, and aging. For optimal protection, a sunscreen that offers both physical and chemical protection (and the chemical ingredient has been approved) are the safest.

Lauren/Lisa: How often should you reapply SPF throughout the day?

Dr. Goldfaden: Reapplication every hour when in direct sunlight and up to three times daily (AM/Mid—day/Afternoon) when going in and out of indoor/outdoor areas. As a general rule of thumb: if you are going to be outside for 20 minutes or more, SPF is recommended and I always recommend an SPF of at least a 30 in any case.

Lauren/Lisa: There are so many different SPF levels on the market. What are the rules? What is the highest level that we should be applying on our skin?

Dr. Goldfaden: The FDA has put in strict enforcements and regulatory measures to ensure that all SPF products follow a mandate the use of certain sun blocking agents, that have been FDA approved, are being used in products that claim SPF factors. Furthermore, the FDA outlines the template that companies must use in disclaiming the products safety and SPF legalizations on the secondary packaging. This ensures that all companies are following the same guidelines, restrictions and safety for our marketplace and consumers. The most notable and recent change is the use of SPF levels greater that 50. You won’t see sunscreens on the market in a year from now claiming SPF levels of 100. There is no substantiation that shows further sun blocking treatment benefits from a 50 to 100.

Product Spotlight, Sun Visor: Dr. Goldfaden’s fast absorbing, oil-free, PABA-free and fragrance-free SPF 30 sunscreen protects your skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays. This unique product offers dual-action protection by delivering high-level UV filters to help prevent sun damage, fine lines, and dark spots. Skin renewing organic red tea works to rejuvenate skin and provide antioxidant benefits. This advanced, revolutionary, ultralight translucent oil-free, fragrance-free and even smear-free formula is a must for all skin types.

Dermatologists, estheticians and plastic surgeons all have a surprising array of tools and techniques to beat back the signs of time. For some of us, that sounds really scary! We enlisted Dr. Goldfaden to tell us about five ways in which we can look younger longer, without any invasive in-office procedures and altering much in our daily lives.

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What are your top tips for keeping skin young? Exfoliation is key – You would be surprised how much smoother and brighter just one exfoliating treatment can do for your skin. Regular exfoliation also allows topical products, particularly super potent treatment serums, applied onto the skin afterwards to penetrate deeper, increasing the overall treatment. Never leave home without applying a sun screen – it is essential to keeping ourselves protected from free radical damage and skin cancer. ”  Dermatologist Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

When should we begin focusing on an anti-aging skincare routine? “Protecting your skin from UVA and UVB damage through the daily use of a sunscreen and starting a proper and preventative skincare regimen – exfoliation, cleanse, anti-oxidant rich serum, moisturize and eye cream – in your mid-20’s is a vital step towards keeping fine lines, pigmentation and sagging at bay. The skin is at it’s healthiest state during your 20’s and it is also when most of your habits begin and stick when it comes to proper caring of the skin. It makes all the difference in the world for obtaining proper skin health and appearance. By the time 30 rolls around, you will be thankful that you started proper skin early.” Dermatologist Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

What are some effective ingredients to look for? “Some of the ingredients that I often lean on to incorporate into our formulas, due to their potent benefits on the skin, include skin plumping hyaluronic acid, anti-inflammatory vitamin K and Arnica, skin brightening alpha arbutin and gooseberry berry extract, skin exfoliating ruby crystals, collagen boosting retinoids, antioxidant rich tea extracts. Dermatologist Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD”

What about supplements and our diet in general? How can those help? “Clear and glowing skin starts from the inside. Eating foods rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, the most beneficial is Salmon, can greatly reduce inflammation, reduce dryness and increase circulation – a key attribute to healthy, youthful-looking skin. Daily consumption of vitamins specifically my favorite vitamin – Vitamin D and an overall multi-vitamin greatly impacts your overall health.” Dermatologist Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD

Can you share some of your favorite anti-aging products? Loaded with vital nutrients, vitamins and a higher concentration of topical skin treatment ingredients, serums – either oil or water based – penetrate deep into the dermis levels of the skin for the ultimate topical nourishing skin treatments. Serums offer a potent jolt to the skin that typically target specific problems to offer the highest levels of treatment in a topical product.” Dermatologist Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD