Ingredients to ditch and why

We recently launched with Credo Beauty, arguably the best selection of ‘Clean Beauty’ products in the marketplace and among the many reasons that we value our partnership together reflects the standards in which they abide by when selecting new lines/products to launch. Given all the information that we know about harmful ingredients, Credo Beauty dishes out the most brilliant breakdown of ingredients to ditch and why. We’ve highlighted below our top picks of ingredients to stay clear of and why.

Make sure to check out Credo Beauty for a curated assortment of the best clean beauty brands in the marketplace.

Benzophenone and derivatives

What is it?
Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) occurs naturally in some flowering plants. The benzophenones are a group of aromatic ketones that have both pharmaceutical and industrial applications. They have both UVB and some UVA absorbing properties and act like optical filters to block out harmful UV rays, whether it be in a sunscreen agent to reduce skin damage or to retard photodegradation and extend shelf life in toiletries or plastic surface coatings.

Why is it on our “Dirty” List?
Products containing benzophenone or benzophenone derivatives may cause redness, swelling, itching and fluid-filled blisters. Symptoms may appear immediately or several days later (delayed contact and photocontact dermatitis). In severe cases anaphylaxis may occur. In addition to allergic reactions, concerns have been raised about the relative ease of which benzophenones are absorbed into the skin and may promote generation of potentially harmful free radicals. Also, recent reports show having hormonal effects in animal studies that has deterred some people from using sunscreen products. However these findings are not based on human studies and cannot be a reliable indicator of what happens in people. Benzophenones, including oxybenzone, combined with other sunscreen agents still provide excellent sun protection. The long-term use of these agents in sunscreens is unknown and further research is warranted. Why is it used in cosmetic and beauty products? Benzophenone is used to prevent ultraviolet light from damaging scents and colors in products such as perfumes and soaps. This allows the manufacturer to package the product in clear glass or plastic. Without it, opaque or dark packaging would be used. It can also be added to the plastic packaging as a UV blocker. It is also sometimes used as a flavoring agent. It is commercially synthesized as a sunscreen for use in lotions, conditioners, and cosmetics. It is also used as a UV stabilizer in plastic surface coatings and polymers. Benzophenone-3 is a common ingredient in sun-blocking agents.

The four main benzophenone derivatives that have been used widely in sunscreens and cosmetics are listed below. They share similar chemical and physical properties. Often benzophenones are used in combination with other chemical absorbing sunscreens to augment and stabilize the final product.

Hydroquinone

What is it?
Hydroquinone is a chemical, also called “benzene-1,4-diol.” (Benzene is a known carcinogen). It’s a type of phenol, which is just a fancy name for a certain class of chemical compounds that are similar to alcohols, but with unique properties. It works to lighten the skin by decreasing the production of the skin’s pigment cells, called “melanocytes.” By inhibiting the action of a certain enzyme, it slows down the production of melanin, which is what gives skin its color.

Why is it on our “Dirty” List?
Long-term use of the ingredient has been associated with contact dermatitis and decreased skin elasticity—you may be lightening, but you’re raising your risk for other skin problems that only increase the look of skin aging It increases photosensitivity—your skin becomes more sensitive to UVA and UVB rays, which is why most creams recommend the liberal application of sunscreens. The compound has also been linked with a condition called “ochronosis” in some people, which creates darkened bluish/gray patches on the skin, even in those using creams with only 2 percent of the ingredient. Some Hydroquinone creams may contain “sodium metabisulphite,” which is known to cause serious allergic reactions in sensitive people. Doctors caution pregnant women not to use hydroquinone.

Why is it used in cosmetic products?
Most people who use hydroquinone find after about one-to-three months that their skin has lightened, though it doesn’t work for everyone. Because of its reputation for actually lightening skin, however, it has become widely used to deal with age spots, scarring, and other types of darkened skin.

Methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone and benzisothiazolinone

What is it?
Found in antibacterial products. This ingredient is a powerful biocide. That means it’s a chemical substance that can control or kill harmful microorganisms.

You’ll find MIT and chemicals like it at low concentrations in “rinse-off” products like shampoos, conditioners, hair colors, body washes, laundry detergents, liquid hand soaps, bubble bath, hand dishwashing soaps, and shampoo/conditioner combinations.

Why is it on our “Dirty” List?
It is an allergen and neurotoxin. Unlike some synthetic chemicals, however, this one isn’t just a mild skin irritant. A recent study found the chemical may actually be linked to nerve damage, and it’s also known to be toxic in several other ways. The biggest concern with this ingredient came to light when researchers conducted two recent laboratory studies on rat brain cells, and found that MIT caused damage to those cells. The researchers stated, “a brief exposure to methylisothiazolinone, a widely used industrial and household biocide, is highly toxic to cultured neurons….” The scientists went on to state that these toxic effects had been reported previously, and because of their widespread use, the consequences of chronic human exposure need to be evaluated. What was most concerning about this study was that the exposure was only 10 minutes long.

What did the cosmetic industry say about this? The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CFTA) issued a response stating that MIT is safe as it is used in cosmetic formulas because the exposure is so low. Indeed, in 2004, the European Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended for Consumers (SCCNFP) suggested that companies limit the maximum concentration of MIT to 0.01 percent, or 100 parts per million (ppm). U.S. companies, however, are not required to follow this guideline.

Why is it used in cosmetic products?
As a powerful biocide, used for controlling microbial growth in water-containing solutions – a powerful preservative. It works well as a preservative in products like shampoo and body care products, helping them to last a long time on the shelf and in your bathroom cabinets without becoming contaminated with unwanted bugs, bacteria, and fungi.

Mineral Oil (also listed as liquid paraffin; liquid petrolatum; paraffin oil)

What is it?
Also called “liquid petroleum,” “paraffin oil,” and “white mineral oil,” mineral oil has long been used in a number of industries, including biomedicine, veterinary medicine, mechanical, electrical, and industrial. Mineral oil is a colorless and odorless oil that’s made from petroleum—as a by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline.

Why it is on our “Dirty” List?
There is concern that much of the mineral oil we are exposed to on a daily basis does contain contaminants that could affect our health. Mineral oil is available in different grades. And cosmetics use what is called “cosmetic grade” mineral oil, which is more purified than technical grade. Studies have not linked this oil with cancer, but scientists have expressed concern about it. A 2011 study, for example, reported that contamination could be a relevant source of “mineral oil contamination.” Researchers stated, “There is strong evidence that mineral oil hydrocarbons are the greatest contaminant of the human body, amounting to approximately 1 gram per person. Possible routes of contamination include air inhalation, food intake, and dermal [skin] absorption.”

Mineral oil is considered “comedogenic,” which means it can clog your pores and increase the risk of acne and blackheads. The more refined, the less comedogenic, but there’s no way to know (unless the company is willing to tell you) how purified the mineral oil is that’s in your product. The highest grade available is called “pharmaceutical grade,” or “mineral oil USP.” Even this high grade of mineral oil can trap ingredients in your pores, however, because the oil is an “occlusive agent”—which means that it forms a physical barrier over your skin to reduce moisture loss. So if you already have bacteria on your skin (most likely), or if you have other ingredients in your product that can clog pores, even the most refined mineral oil will keep all of that close and tight to your skin, increasing risk of breakouts.

Why is it used in cosmetic products?
It’s long been used as a common ingredient in lotions, creams, ointments, and cosmetics. It’s lightweight and inexpensive, and helps reduce water loss from the skin.

Parabens (methyl-, isobutyl-, proply- and others)

What is it?
Parabens have been widely used in products to prevent bacteria growth since the 1950s. “About 85 percent of cosmetics have them,” says Arthur Rich, Ph.D., a cosmetic chemist in Chestnut Ridge, New York. “They’re inexpensive and effective.” New York City dermatologist Fran E. Cook-Bolden explains, “Parabens have a long history of safe use, and that’s why they’re commonplace. New preservatives have less of a proven track record.” In fact, typically, more than one form of the ingredient is used in a product. The most common are butylparaben, methylparaben, and propylparaben. Over the last few years, however, in response to customer concerns, many brands have started to manufacture (and label) paraben-free products, including lotions, lipsticks, shampoos, scrubs, and more.

Why it is on our “Dirty” List?
Parabens (specifically Propyl-, Isopropyl-, Butyl-, and Isobutyl- parabens): Parabens are estrogen-mimicking preservatives used widely in cosmetics. The CDC has detected parabens in virtually all Americans bodies. According to the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, longer chain parabens like propyl and butyl paraben and their branched counterparts, isopropyl and isobutylparabens, may disrupt the endocrine system and cause reproductive and developmental disorders.

In the 1990s, parabens were deemed xenoestrogens―agents that mimic estrogen in the body. “Estrogen disruption” has been linked to breast cancer and reproductive issues. And in 2004 British cancer researcher Philippa Darbre, Ph.D., found parabens present in malignant breast tumors. As a result, experts in many countries are recommending limits on paraben levels in cosmetic products. What’s more, watchdog organizations worry that if parabens can be stored in the body, over time they could have a cumulative effect and pose a health risk.

Why is it used in cosmetic products?
Parabens act as a preservative in cosmetic products and inhibit the growth of bacteria.

Phthalates (DBP, DEHP, DEP and others)

What is it?
Phthalates are materials that are derived from the organic chemical phthalic acid. Although Phthalates are used primarily as plasticizers in plastics, meaning they are used to give flexibility to rubber, plastic, or resin, they are also used in just about every major product category such as construction, automotive, household, apparel, toys, packaging, and medicinal materials. Because Phthalates are widely used in many consumer products, their use has been extensively researched and reviewed. Phthalates are a broad class of ingredients; each has its own benefits and toxicological profile, so each must be considered for use separately.

Why it is on our “Dirty” List?
The concern with phthalates is that they have the ability to mimic human hormones. They’re one of the so-called “endocrine disrupting” compounds, which have been shown to cause health problems.

Although the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has chosen not to take regulatory action against the use of DBP and DEHP in cosmetics, in 2004 the European Union [EU] prohibited the manufacture and/or sale of cosmetics containing these specific Phthalates. Additionally, in 2005 the state of California listed DEHP and DBP as chemicals that are known to the state to cause reproductive or developmental toxicity and require label warnings when these substances are present at higher than designated amounts. In 1988, DEHP was listed as a chemical known to the state to cause cancer. DEP has a long and safe history of use, and consumers are routinely exposed to DEP in the air, water, food, plastics, medical devices and drugs. The FDA has conducted its own studies to determine whether exposure to DEP contained in cosmetics products presents a human health risk. Based upon its test results and current toxicological data, the FDA concluded that no health hazard exists with DEP’s use in cosmetics and fragrances.

Why is it used in cosmetic products?
In cosmetics, phthalates are used to help other ingredients adhere to a particular surface. Phthalates in nail polish, for example, help the polish cling to the nail and resist cracking. Phthalates in hair sprays allow them to form a flexible film on hair that doesn’t feel stiff. Phthalates in perfumes and fragrances help the scent cling to your skin. Phthalates are also used as solvents, which are chemicals that dissolve other ingredients.

The Phthalate that is most frequently used in cosmetics and personal care products is Diethyl Phthalate [DEP]. Dimethyl Phthalate [DMP] may also have some uses in cosmetics and personal care products. Dibutyl Phthalate [DBP] is an ingredient that has been found to be safe and effective for use in making nail polish flexible and resistant to chipping. However, since DBP has been banned in some countries, the use of the ingredient has been discontinued by most manufacturers. Diethylhexyl Phthalate [DEHP] is no longer used in the manufacturing of cosmetic and personal care including nail products.

DEP is most commonly used as a solubulizer in perfumes and as a denaturant in alcohol. The use of DEP also prolongs the scent of perfumes and, as a denaturant, renders alcoholic products unfit for oral consumption. The use of DEP as an alcohol denaturant also continues to be approved by the US Alcohol Tax & Trade Bureau (formerly the BATF)

Polyethylene glycol (PEG compounds)

What is it?
PEG, which is the abbreviation of polyethylene glycol, is not a definitive chemical entity in itself, but rather a mixture of compounds, of polymers that have been bonded together. Polyethylene is the most common form of plastic, and when combined with glycol, it becomes a thick and sticky liquid.

As you may have noticed, PEGs are almost always followed by a number after their name, such as PEG 100. This number represents the approximate molecular weight of that compound. Typically, cosmetics use PEGs with smaller molecular weights. The lower the molecular weight, the easier it is for the compound to penetrate the skin.

Often, PEGs are connected to another molecule. You might see, for example, PEG 100 stearate as an ingredient. What this means is that the polyethylene glycol polymer with an approximate molecular weight of 100 is attached chemically to stearic acid.

PEGs are not found in anti-freeze; that’s ethylene glycol, NOT polyethylene glycol. And yes, PEGs are found in some spray-on oven cleaners, but those PEGs are quite different in both molecular weight and structure than the PEGs found in your cosmetics.

Why it is on our “Dirty” List?
While PEGs can be mild irritants, they’re less than desirable primarily because they help traffic funky chemicals across your epidermis, including a slug of impurities they’re often contaminated with. The most important thing you need to know about PEGs is that they have a penetration enhancing effect, the magnitude of which is dependent upon a variety of variables. These include: both the structure and molecular weight of the PEG, other chemical constituents in the formula, and, most importantly, the overall health of the skin. It is very important to avoid products with PEGs if your skin is not in tip top condition.

Why is it used in cosmetic products?
In cosmetics, PEGs function in three ways: as emollients (which help soften and lubricate the skin), as emulsifiers (which help water-based and oil-based ingredients mix properly), and as vehicles that help deliver other ingredients deeper into the skin, penetration enhancers.