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Your Summer to Fall Skincare Transition

 

The dog days of summer are wrapping up—and coincides with when skin has decided it can no longer take the heat, grime and sweat it’s been enduring for the past few months, going haywire. Just some of what you might be seeing in the mirror? Photo-damaged skin, discoloration, dehydration, dull or lackluster complexion, congestion. “It’s the sun, sand, beach, warm/humid climate,” explains Dr. Goldfaden. “Added with the fact that consumers are putting on loads of sunscreen to protect against harmful UVA/UVB rays, which can lead to skin congestion and breakouts.”

So what do we do about the new constellation of pimples that has suddenly appeared on our left cheek, and refuses to budge? The changes in weather, as summer transitions to fall, is already enough to shock your skin. So make sure any changes to your skincare regimen are subtle, rather than completely abandoning your previous routine just because it’s getting a little cooler outside. “Subtle changes to your regimen can do wonders for your skin and give it what it really needs. Polish and plump: this is the key. Exfoliation (either in the form of a physical exfoliator or enzyme/chemical)–ridding your complexion of dead, dry, dull cells and revealing brighter, smoother, younger-looking skin underneath is the beginning of revealing a more healthy-looking complexion followed by a corrective moisturizer/hydrating treatment, like oils and moisturizers.”

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One subtle change? Swapping out just your cleanser. Goldfaden MD has developed a new cleanser that foams, the Detox Clarifying Facial Wash. Currently the original cleanser in the line, Pure Start, is a gentle wash that helps realign the skin’s natural pH balance. Detox Wash—thanks to a hardworking combo of AHA acids—takes it a step further by fighting bacteria, clarifying pores clogged up by sunscreen, and really addressing congested skin. If your current cleanser works great—check by swiping a pad with micellar water after a wash to see there’s no grime or residue left behind—keep using it!

To treat discoloration, photodamaged skin, or a dull complexion, think about slipping a few brightening ingredients into your regimen. Vitamin C (found in Goldfaden MD’s Brightening Elixir), alpha arbutin (found in Light Treatment, specifically for dark spots) and lactic acid (found in Fresh a Peel) are all power players that can help brighten skin tone and increase radiance.

It’s not just enough to apply product to the face—aka, treating merely the visible symptoms—to treat your skin well. It’s important to balance an effective skincare routine with good choices in diet and a supportive environment. “We holistically believe that healthy-looking skin is a 360-degree approach to wellness,” says Dr. Goldfaden. He recommends eating a diet rich in fatty acids (a “hydration punch”): think avocados, salmon, leafy greens, which will “keep congestion and inflammation at bay while infusing nutrient rich vitamins and nutrients back into your system.” It also means staying clear of alcohol, white carbs and refined sugar—all of which can trigger the inflammation we’re trying to avoid.

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Dr. Goldfaden’s Sun Safety Tips

Going into the Summer season there is so much to be excited about – longer days, BBQ’s, Sun, Sand and beach, but it’s also a time where we need to put skin protection on the top of our list. We sat down with Dr. G to understand what being “Sun Safe” really means and also learn about some post-sun skin tips from the king of reversing sun damage.

photo via @graymalin

What are your sun protection recommendations for someone dealing with rosacea?

“The sun is arguably the most common trigger for Rosacea. Rosacea suffers need to be particularly sun smart and practice what I like to call ‘Smart Sun Safety’ or SSS. SSS consists of the use of a physical sunscreen, containing Titanium or Zinc oxide, protective clothing (which includes a hat and sunglasses) and not being exposed to the sun during high-risk hours of the day. When choosing and SPF avoid ingredients such as phalates, sulfates, artificial fragrances, preservatives and mineral oil. A physical sunscreen is always better in my opinion than a chemical one. Chemical sunscreens, due to the nature of having to be absorbed into the skin, can interact and cause irritation, rashes or clogged pores. Dry mists or sprays may be more beneficial for Rosacea suffers as there is no rubbing of skin needed thus possibly aggravating skin and causing more redness and irritation. Post ‘sun care’ is very important for Rosacea suffers also. Look for calming ingredients such as green tea, red tea or chamomile, which target redness, inflammation and irritation while delivering a cooling sensation.”

Sun protection before make-up is one thing, but is it necessary to reapply SPF during the day?

“Reapplying sunscreen throughout the day is crucial to proper sun protection. When in direct sun (at the beach, pool or on a boat), sunscreen should be reapplied every 30-45 minutes. Sunscreen should always be reapplied after swimming even if you have on waterproof sunscreen. A physical sunscreen is always better than a chemical one. Chemical sunscreens, due to the nature of having to be absorbed into the skin, can interact and cause irritation rashes or clogged pores. Another downside to a chemical sunscreen is that the sun has to actually touch and reach the skin, whereas a physical sunscreen is blocking the UV rays from ever touching the skin.”

And if so, what are your recommendations for reapplying sun protection after make-up?

“A dry mist or spray will allow over and after makeup coverage without messing up makeup and adding bacteria from the fingers to the skin.”

Are there any products outside of an SPF that we should be using to prevent against harmful UVA/UVB rays? 

“The use of potent anti-oxidants have been proven to fight against free-radical damage (from UVA/UVB rays and environmental stressors) that break down skin cells and cause premature aging. Using a potent-packed anti-oxidant rich daily serum is equally as important as SPF to ensure that you are protecting the skin on multiple levels.”

What are three routine related things people should do/no do before visiting a clinic for a treatment – specifically to reverse sun damage (pigmentation/dehydration)? And why? (ie: are there ingredients they should avoid, medications, drinking water etc.)

Do not exfoliate, use peels or Retinoid type products the night before or morning of the facial, especially if you tend to be sensitive. A reputable spa will usually request paperwork be filled out listing any medications being taken or applied topically. The aesthetician should ask you if you’re taking medications or using Retin-A or retinoid products. Since Retinoids are aggressive they do not mix well with ingredients like Glycolic and Vitamin C to name a few. Some skin types can handle it but most will be irritated, so why take the chance.

Why is exfoliation important for maintaining healthy, youthful skin?

“Exfoliation is extremely important. The removal of dead skin cells will make skin look younger, tighter and absorb treatment products better.”

What does ‘un-exfoliated’ skin look like?

“I always use the example of an unpeeled onion. Before an onion is peeled or skin is exfoliated it appears dry, crackly, dull and lackluster. Un-exfoliated skin can look rough, uneven and have dark spots, as there is a build up of dead skin cells, dirt and bacteria.”

What are some mistakes people make when it comes to exfoliating?

“Over exfoliation is a common mistake people tend to make. Over exfoliation can occur from overuse (too many days in a row), too harsh of an acid for specific skin types (sensitive skin does better with Lactic acid as opposed to Glycolic), scrubbing too hard, or mixing too many exfoliation ingredients at once (don’t scrub and peel together). Over exfoliation can also happen if skin is already dry, sunburned, wind burned or during seasonal changes.”

What are your top recommendations for exfoliating at home?  

“Exfoliate skin two to three times a week, unless you suffer from rosacea or eczema. Depending on the season and climate, exfoliation can be increased or decreased. Both physical and chemical exfoliation is recommended but never on the same day. Rosacea and Eczema suffers should use chemical exfoliators and gentle gel based cleansers.”

What is the best way to treat a sun burn? 

“While skin is still damp, use a gentle moisturizing lotion (but not petroleum or oil-based ointments, which may trap the heat and make the burn worse). Repeat to keep burned or peeling skin moist over the next few days. The use of an anti-inflammatory serum is also recommended – look for ingredients like aloe vera, red/green/black tea and Vitamin E as it helps to soothe aggravated skin and reduce redness.”

What is one surprising complexion cures you’ve learned on the job?

“I’ve been in practice for over 40 years and one cure I always recommend and go back to is a cold compress. Cold compresses relieve issues related to sunburn, bug bites, redness, itchiness, inflammation and can be made anywhere. Sometimes simple and natural is the best.”

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Beauty Rehab: Detox Recovery For Your Skin

Take it from Dr. Goldfaden himself, your skin needs a little special TLC coming off of a month of parties, sugar, alcohol and little sleep. Start the New Year off with these expert tips that will keep your skin looking youthful, glowing and vibrant all year long.

Lifestyle Tips: 

  • Sleep with your head slightly elevated. Fluid retention occurs while we sleep because we are lying flat and circulation can be affected. Excess sugar, salt and alcohol will add to fluid retention. Consumption of all these pollutants can escalate swelling and puffiness to the eyes and face.
  • Drink ample water throughout the day (recommended at least 9oz) or coconut water (high in potassium/electrolyte) before going to bed as this will rehydrate your body, help flush out unwanted toxins, reduce inflammation and keep skin looking plump and hydrated.
  • Regular Exercise (3-5 times per week, even for just 30 min) Even though it my be the last thing you feel like doing, sweating will help de-puff the eyes and face, circulation will get blood pumping (and also awaken the complexion) and the release of endorphins will make you feel better internally and glow externally.
  • If your eyes are swollen, ice them with frozen Rooibos tea bags. We always keep some in the freezer. Rooibos is high in anti-inflammatory agents and is also very soothing.

Stay Clear Of:

  • Alcohol seems almost unavoidable during the holiday season. Small amounts in moderation are okay and if possible try to stick to red wine (at least you get the resveratrol bonus). Alcohol contains a ton of sugar, which causes glycation (the breakdown of the proteins in the skin (collagen and elastin), ultimately causing skin to sag and age. Glucose also causes cells to be malformed and irregular thus creating free radicals.
  • White Sugar (which is in everything) also causes glycation. When choosing a holiday treat to either eat or bake, try adding Honey or Cacao, as they are great alternatives to white sugar and they are both super foods. Cinnamon can also be substituted and it helps with inflammation!

Dr. G’s Skincare Must-Haves:

De-Puff, Brighten and Tighten

Arguably the first place over indulging appears is the eyes and eye area. Darkness, puffiness and overall sagging will improve with an appropriate brightening and de-puffing eye cream (along with sleep). The eye region gets dehydrated very quickly as we do not have oil glands for self-lubrication. Bright Eyes triple action eye concentrate will not only make the eye area look and feel more hydrated, but it can double as a makeup primer! Powerhouse ingredients, soy and rice bran peptides have been shown to reduce venous blood clotting. They have also been shown to have a localized effect on the hemodynamic properties of blood vessels and to increase blood supply to the superficial tissue of the eyelids. This means they help with circulation and distribution of blood flow, avoiding clotting and dark circles. Moreover, these two peptides have been shown to inhibit elastase and collagenase, which degrade collagen and elastin in the skin, thus helping the skin retain its natural firmness. Keep this in the refrigerator for an extra cool sensation and will also help decreases swelling!

Exfoliate

The process of exfoliation is a lot like peeling away the dry, outer skin of an onion to reveal the living layers beneath. Whether the exfoliation is done using mechanical abrasion or a controlled chemical/enzyme peel, removing dead viagra efectos adversos and damaged skin cells on the surface allows the fresh new skin underneath to become visible. This newly exposed layer of skin feels much softer and smoother. Its surface reflects light better, making fine lines and other small imperfections harder to see. Age spots and other areas of unwanted pigmentation are less noticeable because the dead skin cells containing the pigment have been removed. Exfoliation unplugs clogged pores and allows for the release of natural skin oils. Regular exfoliation also helps to maintain open pores, decreases pore size, and minimizes many types of superficial scarring. In addition, removing the top layer of dead and damaged cells allows other health-promoting agents such as moisturizers, antioxidants, and collagen-boosting ingredients to better penetrate the skin and work more effectively.

Dr. G’s January pick: Fresh A Peel – a multi fruit acid peel for hydrated and bright skin. The unique combination of Lactic acid and Multi-Fruit Enzymes provide superior rate of exfoliation while reducing the appearance of fine lines, pores, and skin imperfections (and Lactic Acid also pulls moisture to the surface of the skin which creates a plump complexion). Apply to dry clean skin for 2-5 minutes and then rinse with cool water. The finished result will be even, smooth, bright and fresh-looking skin. Don’t forget the neck and chest areas too! Hit the road dead skin cells!!

Mask Away: Detoxify your complexion

Facial Detox is a powerhouse product that reduces blackheads, pore size, redness and inflammation to reveal a healthier, blemish-free complexion. “We are extremely proud to introduce the first ever mask + spot treatment to the GOLDFADEN MD range,” says Dr. Goldfaden. “The prestige marketplace was lacking a natural solution to common breakouts and blemishes that would be effective enough to be deemed high-performance without any chemical additives or irritating medicine, and we are proud to be the brand to fill that void.”

Facial Detox utilizes potent naturals including zinc oxide, sulfur and camphor to correct and purify broken out or blemished skin. This gentle mask’s ingredients go beyond treatment of existing problem areas to heal the skin and prevent further breakouts.

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