Posts

Waking up looking refreshed requires more than just the absence of under eye darkness or puffiness, the skin tells the story. To understand better what actually happens to our bodies and minds while we sleep and why it is a crucial part of a healthy lifestyle, we sat down with Dr. G to get the scoop.

What controls sleep?

Hormones play a major part of healthy sleep. Melatonin is a hormone made in the brain by the pineal gland and helps to regulate the sleep wake cycle. Human growth hormone or (GH) is released during sleep and hence it’s name, helps to regenerate and grow healthy cells. Studies have shown that ingesting oral melatonin before bed can increase growth hormone by over 150%. As melatonin levels decline with age, only minuscule amounts of the small quantities produced by those suffering from sleep problems actually reach the skin. Ingesting melatonin before bedtime is extremely effective in getting the hormone levels back in balance and delivering a healthy sleep.

Other studies have shown that going straight to the source and applying melatonin directly to the skin may allow those suffering from insomnia to benefit from it’s rejuvenating powers, not only for restoring the appearance and texture of skin, but also in getting a good night’s sleep.

What ingredients should we use night and why?

The restorative power of sleep is vital for rejuvenating and repairing the skin and is controlled by the hormone melatonin. Melatonin production increases and peaks around 2am, so applying a night cream before bed enhances your skin’s ability to rest and reset. Wearing anti-aging products at night allows skin to absorb all the nutrients and ingredients while being in a relaxed state and out range of UV rays and pollution.

During the nighttime hours, the skin springs into action to repair itself back into balance through a restorative and renewal process.The most potent anti-aging ingredients to look for in a night cream include: Retinoids, Peptides and Melatonin. The efficacy of melatonin as a topical agent also offers a promising avenue to enhance the skin’s nightly repair cycle.

  • Retinoids attack hyper-pigmentation, stimulate skin to generate collagen and hyaluronic acid, increase radiance by reducing pore size, safely exfoliate and increase cell turnover .
  • Peptides encourage skin cell growth and collagen production. Peptides are made up of a string of amino acids held together by tough bonds of nitrogen and carbon that act as messengers to send out signals which tell the receptors on your skin cells how they should perform. A few of the most beneficial peptides include palmitoyl pentapeptide-3,which is a peptide that triggers a natural heal-and-repair response that stimulates the development of collagen and elastin, encourages new fibroblast growth, and increases the production of skin cells. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is a powerful wrinkle-reducing peptide that works by hindering a signal protein called catecholamine that triggers muscle contraction, thereby relaxing your facial muscles.
  • Melatonin plays a key role in rejuvenating skin by stimulating the growth of major skin cells such as keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Fibroblasts produce the essential proteins collagen and elastin, which provide structural support for the skin. Melatonin has also been shown to be effective against skin aging. It has powerful antioxidant properties by quenching mainly hydroxyl radicals, the most damaging of all radicals.

What can we do to ensure a good night’s sleep?

Set yourself up for success by making your bedroom into a successful sleeping area. Sleep with your head slightly elevated can help with fluid retention in the facial area. Fluid retention occurs while we sleep because we are lying flat and circulation can be affected. Excess sugar, salt and alcohol will add to fluid retention. Consumption of all these pollutants can escalate swelling and puffiness to the eyes and face. Try to avoid alcohol before bed as it leads to uneven sleep rhythms in the brain as well as fluid retention.

Top tips for a good night’s sleep:

  • Keep your bedroom at a cool temperature
  • Silk pillow case-softer and less absorbent than cotton-silk won’t dry skin out and also causes less pulling and tugging if you’re a face sleeper
  • Wear earplugs to ensure silence
  • Noise machine- used to calm babies and help them sleep, noise machines can be beneficial for falling asleep as well as staying asleep
  • Stop using electronics an hour before bedtime and keep your phone/tablet out of the bedroom-blue light interferes with sleep
  • Eat plant based high fat foods with dinner to stay satiated and balance blood sugar while asleep
  • Wear an eye mask -keeps light out

I often get asked how I achieve glowing flawless skin. For the record no one has perfect skin, not even me. A flawless appearance takes diligence, patience and the correct products for success. This holiday season you too can achieve the Goldfaden glow by following a few easy steps.

Exfoliate

Keep it simple. Two to three times a week is all it takes. If you’re a member of the ‘aggressive exfoliator’s’ club and your skin can handle it, then everyday is okay too! We suggest having both a physical and enzymatic exfoliator in your regimen. They serve different purposes and should never used on the same day.

***An enzymatic or chemical exfoliator can come in the form of a peel, pad or sheet mask. All this means is that you are exfoliating with an acid.

***Acids come in two types, AHA and BHA. AHA acids are glycolic, lactic, malic and citric and are beneficial for the surface maintenance. BHA is beta hydroxy/salicylic acid.

***AHA acids exfoliate dead skin cells, dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, reverses the appearance of sun damage, hydrates and makes skin look and feel firmer/tighter.

***BHA acid targets the surface but also works inside the pores. BHA contains calming properties so it is good for sensitive skin and those who suffer from redness.

Then there are the physical exfoliators – the scrubs. Physical or manual exfoliation result on smooth, clear and even toned skin. For an even canvas to apply makeup to scrub away with our cult favorite Doctor’s Scrub. Not only will you look flawless with makeup but your skin will be clearer, smoother and more even without makeup!

 

 

Smooth & Fill

Don’t have time to run to the dermatologist, don’t fret – it causes more wrinkles! Needle-less is our targeted line smoothing serum that perfect for those stubborn lines and wrinkles. Apply this powerhous
e serum, which is full of hyaluronic acid and peptides, to clean troubled areas for an instant result.

 

De-puff & Brighten

A crucial step is to hydrate and brighten the eye area, especially if wearing makeup. The eyes are the focal point of the face and they need to be hydrated. Thin skin under and above the eyes can age a person, so always apply one pump of Bright Eyes under and above each eye. We do not formulate with silicone, so you wont experience any pilling of slippage when applying makeup over.

 

Hydrate & Glow

There is a trick to getting the Goldfaden glow. Apply Fleuressence Oil all over the face by pressing a dropper full firmly into the skin. While the skin is still moist with oil apply a mixture of skin primer and foundation.

***Mix a pump of primer and a pump of foundation (my preference is GEE Beauty) on the top of your hand and use a kabuki brush to apply all over the face. The Fleuressence oil will add extra radiance to the skin and result in a dewy plump appearance.

 

Dust & Radiate

Finish off the look with GEE Beauty Soft Focus Powder. Dust across the hairline and on the top of the cheeks (where sun would naturally hit) and then along the jaw line and onto the neck. For extra radiance at night or anytime, add RMS light luminizer to the top of cheekbones and on the cupids bow (that little indentation above the lip).

Glow baby, glow!

What

Both AHAs and BHAs chemical exfoliators work by combining with the structural lipids in the stratum corneum (aka skin) and dissolving them so that the dead skin cells break away. This is just a fancy was of explaining their very efficient exfoliation method and why they’re an encouraged addition to any healthy skincare regimen.

Who

Alpha Hydroxy Acid or AHA (which are Lactic acid, Glycolic acid and the Fruit acids) is used as a facial exfoliator and is an excellent choice for people with sun damaged skin, aging skin and normal to dry skin types. AHA does not cause sun sensitivity and comes in many forms. AHA’s come in the form of lactic acid which is derived from milk, glycolic acid which is derived from sugarcane and fruit acids which are derived from fruits (citrus and apples/malic acid). AHA can also aid in thickening the lower layers of the skin thus delivering firmness.

Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA (also called salicylic acid) comes from acetylsalicylic acid which is the same source as aspirin. In general, beta hydroxy acid is a more effective treatment for acne prone skin. BHA also can cause sun sensitivity and must always be used in conjunction with a sunscreen.

Why

  • They’re both powerhouse ingredients!
  • Both get rid of the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Both make skin appear smoother and tighter
  • Both make skin look more even in texture
  • Improve scarring
  • Improve appearance of photo-aged skin
  • Both hydrate and exfoliate the skin


Well said from Paula’s Choice: “AHAs and BHA are different, and their different properties make one or the other preferred for different skin types”:

  • AHAs are water soluble and are preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin due to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within skin.
  • BHA is oil soluble and preferred for normal to oily, clog-prone and bump-prone skin, and enlarged pores, and can clear pores deeply, even those with hard, tiny, white bumps on the cheeks and face. BHA is even suitable for those prone to milia.
  • AHAs and BHA work on skin’s surface; but BHA also works inside the pore lining, where clogs begin.
  • BHA has natural skin-calming properties, which make it preferred for sensitive, redness-prone skin. It’s great for sensitive skin, even for those with rosacea.”

When

  1. AM/PM: try one in the morning and one at night. If you’re targeting a skin issue then doubling down can be effective. Make sure to always hydrate your skin properly and pay attention to warning signs such as redness or red or dryness.
  2. Alternate days: Try AHA on day and then BHA a few days later. Listen to your skin and you’ll never go wrong!
  3. Spot treat: If you have combo skin, try using BHA only in t-zone or oily areas while using AHA everywhere else.
  4. Know your limits-not everyone needs both and if you’re particularly sensitive and NOT acne prone then stick to AHAs.

Dr. G recommends: (BHA’s) Fresh A Peel + Detox Hydrating Gel, (hybrid of AHA and BHA) Skin Balancing Mask, (AHA) Detox Clarifying Facial Wash.