Tag Archive for: Acne

What

Both AHAs and BHAs chemical exfoliators work by combining with the structural lipids in the stratum corneum (aka skin) and dissolving them so that the dead skin cells break away. This is just a fancy was of explaining their very efficient exfoliation method and why they’re an encouraged addition to any healthy skincare regimen.

Who

Alpha Hydroxy Acid or AHA (which are Lactic acid, Glycolic acid and the Fruit acids) is used as a facial exfoliator and is an excellent choice for people with sun damaged skin, aging skin and normal to dry skin types. AHA does not cause sun sensitivity and comes in many forms. AHA’s come in the form of lactic acid which is derived from milk, glycolic acid which is derived from sugarcane and fruit acids which are derived from fruits (citrus and apples/malic acid). AHA can also aid in thickening the lower layers of the skin thus delivering firmness.

Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA (also called salicylic acid) comes from acetylsalicylic acid which is the same source as aspirin. In general, beta hydroxy acid is a more effective treatment for acne prone skin. BHA also can cause sun sensitivity and must always be used in conjunction with a sunscreen.

Why

  • They’re both powerhouse ingredients!
  • Both get rid of the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Both make skin appear smoother and tighter
  • Both make skin look more even in texture
  • Improve scarring
  • Improve appearance of photo-aged skin
  • Both hydrate and exfoliate the skin


Well said from Paula’s Choice: “AHAs and BHA are different, and their different properties make one or the other preferred for different skin types”:

  • AHAs are water soluble and are preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin due to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within skin.
  • BHA is oil soluble and preferred for normal to oily, clog-prone and bump-prone skin, and enlarged pores, and can clear pores deeply, even those with hard, tiny, white bumps on the cheeks and face. BHA is even suitable for those prone to milia.
  • AHAs and BHA work on skin’s surface; but BHA also works inside the pore lining, where clogs begin.
  • BHA has natural skin-calming properties, which make it preferred for sensitive, redness-prone skin. It’s great for sensitive skin, even for those with rosacea.”

When

  1. AM/PM: try one in the morning and one at night. If you’re targeting a skin issue then doubling down can be effective. Make sure to always hydrate your skin properly and pay attention to warning signs such as redness or red or dryness.
  2. Alternate days: Try AHA on day and then BHA a few days later. Listen to your skin and you’ll never go wrong!
  3. Spot treat: If you have combo skin, try using BHA only in t-zone or oily areas while using AHA everywhere else.
  4. Know your limits-not everyone needs both and if you’re particularly sensitive and NOT acne prone then stick to AHAs.

Dr. G recommends: (BHA’s) Fresh A Peel + Detox Hydrating Gel, (hybrid of AHA and BHA) Skin Balancing Mask, (AHA) Detox Clarifying Facial Wash.

The New Year is traditionally a time for renewing, resetting, clearing, cleansing, and detoxing. However, January is not the only time for these rituals, as it is something that should be kept up all year long!

Just as we are getting out of the party excess mode and focusing heavily on cleansing our internal system through diet (remember all of the endless sweets and alcohol consumption over the last few weeks?!), it’s equally as important to focus on our external (topical) system as well. Since our skin is the largest organ of our body it’s equally important to cleanse and nourish our external system, through proper skincare so that we can provide our entire body with a detox cleanse.

We enlisted Dr. G to breakdown the highlight of different types of detox ingredients that we want in our masks that are essential to a detoxifying regimen and maintain usage throughout the year.

Fact: The average person’s face contains roughly 20,000 pores, each of which act as a ‘pocket’ for dead skin, oil, dirt, and makeup. Throughout the course of a day, these impurities will gradually make their way into the pores, promoting the formation of acne blemishes, irritation and inflammation. Hence, why it’s so important to practice proper skin detoxification, particularly in the form of a potent skin clarifying mask which adds an extra punch of detoxification to any regimen.

Acids: Removing dead skin cells and along with them, pollution and dirt from the skin. Glycolic, lactic, salicylic acids and fruit enzymes are common in all types of “chemical” exfoliants.  Enzymes are also reported to diminish scars, age spots, fine lines, and discoloration, and may also penetrate the skin to cleanse pores and improve skin tone and texture.

Clay: The uber-potent mineral has a super absorbanent material that yanks out dirt and it’s a naturally occurring mineral that works to soothe redness. They work the same way as charcoal, by drawing dirt out of skin. Oily skin and acne-prone people alike swear by clay, because it helps to expel toxins and and reduce redness.  Rule number one of clay masks: Never let them dry completely. Using clay-like masks can be pretty heavy-duty (using too frequently and/or leaving on for too long), so limit use to twice a week max so that you can benefit from the proper treatment.

Charcoal: Acts like a magnet, pulling grime and junk off the skin. Tip: Charcoal needs a bit of time to activate and penetrate the skin, so the most effective charcoal-based products on the market, come in a mask form (i.e. not a cleanser or sponge) so that it will allow for a chance to penetrate the skin and provide the ultimate treatment benefits.

Image via stylecaster

Sweat

Claim: Sweating eliminates toxins, alcohol and pollution from your pores.

Fact:  Toxins in the body are broken down by the liver buy levitra canada now and excreted in urine. But if you find saunas relaxing, then bake away—just be aware that all you’re sweating out is water, salt, protein, and nontoxic urea.

Claim: Sweating makes you break out.

Fact: Acne happens when sebum glands become clogged with oil, not sweat. The exception is bacne: A damp sports bra worn too long can push bacteria into the sebum glands, causing zits.

*Sweating (aka exercise) stimulates neurochemical pathways in the brain, resulting in the production of endorphins that act as natural painkillers and boosts overall mood. In addition, working up a sweat stimulates and increases circulation in the body resulting in that post-workout glow. Overall, exercise and working up a sweat is key to keeping inflammation low, increased mood and glow, and controls overall health and wellness. 

Diet

Myth: Drinking a lot of water will keep your skin clear.

Fact: While water is very important for a heathy diet and complexion, it sadly will not stop acne. Acne and breakouts can be caused by all sorts of issues, but are most directly related to hormones and bacteria.

*However, drinking lots of water and staying hydrated will help fine lines and wrinkles appear less pronounced. Skin will look less dull and dry as water also helps to flush salt and pollutants out of the body. Consistent water intake also helps the eyes look clearer.

Fact: Glycation is the main enemy when it comes to the skin and the aging process of the body in general.

*The glycation process, which is basically, sugars (from food and alcohol) breaking down the collagen fibers in the skin, which excels the aging process.

Fact: Foods that feed glycation and cause inflammation in the body and the skin are carbohydrates, fried foods, sugar, fatty meats and alcohol. Limiting the above mentioned triggers and increasing intake of vegetables and fruits high in anti-oxidants and essential fats will keep skin glowing and clear.

Exfoliation

Myth: Acne prone skin should not exfoliate for fear of spreading the bacteria to other areas of the face.

Fact: Exfoliation not only clears up existing oil and bacteria, it also removes dead and dry skin cells and inhibits future breakouts. Exfoliation helps acne!

 *Regular exfoliation helps treat existing scarring due to Acne. Causing a more even skin surface and smaller pores.

Face Oils

Myth: Face oils are only for dry skin and not acne prone skin.

Fact: Argan Oil and Jojoba Oil, which are similar to our skin’s sebum and trick the skin into thinking enough oil has been produced, so that it does not need to overproduce oil/sebum, thus causing breakouts.

Fact: Hemp Seed Oil eliminates blackheads and is anti-inflammatory.

Fact: People with an oily complexion also suffer from acne and scarring.

Fact: Rose Hip Seed + Baobob Oil help to heal, repair tissue and brighten skin due to high levels Vitamin C, Omega-3 + Omega-6 fatty acids and Retinoic acid.

*Acne prone skin should avoid Avocado oil and Coconut oil as they can be too heavy.

Sunscreen

Myth: All sunscreen can cause Acne + breakouts

Fact: Look for a physical sunscreen that contains Titanium Dioxide or Zinc oxide, as these ingredients sit on top of the skin to protect instead of being absorbed. Also look for oil-free, non-comedogenic sunscreens that come in a dry mist application.

*Stay clear of ingredients like PABA which can cause clogged pores and allergic reactions.

Ingredients

Myth: All ingredients are safe, because there being sold.

Fact: Ingredients matter, no only for what they do inside your body but topically as well. Certain widely used and popular ingredients can be the cause of acne, breakouts and allergies.

*There is no governing body that says what is natural or not in the beauty industry. So you must be your own advocate. Read labels, google ingredients and know what they do. 

Fact: Look for naturally derived ingredients that do not contain mineral oils, alcohol , sulfates, silicones, parabens or artificial fragrances.